Malaysian Coffee Regions Are Rewriting the Global Coffee Dictionary

The history of coffee cultivation in Malaysia is deeply intertwined with the biological and political upheavals of the 19th century. In the 1870s, when Coffee Leaf Rust (Hemileia vastatrix) devastated Arabica plantations in Sri Lanka (then Ceylon) and the Philippines, British colonialists were forced to seek alternatives to maintain supply for the empire. Coffea liberica, a species indigenous to West Africa, was selected and introduced to Malaya due to its robust growth, heat tolerance at low altitudes, and, crucially, its superior resistance to pests compared to Arabica.

From Colonial Crop to Commodity Decline

For decades, Liberica was the staple coffee, thriving in lowlands where Arabica could not survive. However, the mid-20th century witnessed a severe decline in cultivation area.

The rise of industrial crops with higher economic value – primarily rubber and later oil palm – pushed coffee out of the most fertile lands. By the 21st century, Malaysia had become a net importer of coffee, producing only a fraction of its domestic consumption, with yields hovering around 160,000 bags (under 10,000 tons) annually. The domestic market became dominated by traditional “Kopi” culture – a thick, dark, intense beverage made from lower-grade Liberica or Robusta beans roasted with margarine, sugar, and wheat to mask flavor defects and increase volume.

The Shift to “Specialty”

The concept of “specialty coffee” typically refers to Arabica scoring 80 points or higher on the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA) scale. However, the Malaysian context is challenging and expanding this definition. The nation’s specialty movement is advancing on two parallel fronts:

1. The Arabica Front: Leveraging high-altitude microclimates in Sabah to produce SCA-standard Arabica that competes directly with international origins.
2. The Liberica Front: This is Malaysia’s most unique proposition. Producers are applying specialty farming and processing protocols (such as 100% ripe selective picking and temperature-controlled anaerobic fermentation) to Liberica. The goal is to elevate it from a cheap filler ingredient to a premium single-origin coffee with a unique flavor profile.

This pivot has quickly become a survival strategy. Malaysia cannot compete with Vietnam on volume or low cost due to higher labor and land prices. Its only competitive advantage lies in scarcity and distinctiveness—specifically, the unique terroir of Liberica and the high-value potential of highland Arabica.

Johor, the southernmost state of Peninsular Malaysia, is not only the historical center but also the contemporary heart of the Malaysian Liberica industry. The shift from traditional farming to specialty production here serves as a case study for the global revival of this species.

Terroir and Soil Structure: Clay and Peat

In stark contrast to Arabica – which demands porous, well-draining volcanic soil – Liberica demonstrates incredible adaptability to harsh soil conditions. In Johor, particularly in districts like Kulai, Batu Pahat, and Rengit, coffee is cultivated at extremely low elevations, merely 0 to 20 meters above sea level (masl).

• Acidic Clay Loam (Kulai)

In Kulai, home to the My Liberica farm, the soil is predominantly acidic clay loam. In general agriculture, heavy clay is often considered a disadvantage due to poor drainage and low aeration, which can cause root rot in sensitive plants. However, the Liberica tree possesses an exceptionally strong and deep taproot system, allowing it to penetrate compacted clay layers to access deep water tables and minerals.

The interaction between this robust root system and the nutrient-rich (though difficult to access) clay creates positive biological stress on the tree. Experts believe this contributes directly to the intense sweetness and the thick, syrup-like body characteristic of Kulai Liberica.

• Peat Soil (Rengit & Batu Pahat)

Another distinct feature of Johor’s terroir is the presence of coffee plantations on peat soil. Peat is formed from the accumulation of organic matter in waterlogged conditions, characterized by very high acidity (low pH) and high water retention.

Most Arabica varieties would perish in this environment due to root rot or aluminum toxicity. However, Liberica not only survives but thrives. The peat terroir imparts distinct notes to the beans, often described as woody or herbal. When processed correctly, these notes transform into complex flavors of spices and dark fruits, rather than unpleasant earthy tastes.

My Liberica: Vertical Integration as a Catalyst for Quality

The transformation of Johor coffee’s reputation is intrinsically linked to My Liberica, a family business founded by Jason Liew in Kulai. Born into a farming family, Jason recognized the potential of this neglected species and decided to invest in a “seed-to-cup” vertical integration model.

Liberica poses unique post-harvest challenges that previously deterred producers:

• Pulp-to-Bean Ratio: Liberica cherries have significantly thicker skin and pulp compared to Arabica or Robusta, along with a higher sugar content in the mucilage. The conversion ratio from fresh cherry to green bean is incredibly low: while 100kg of Arabica cherries might yield 20-25kg of green beans, 100kg of Liberica yields only about 7-10kg. This exponentially increases production costs.

• Fermentation Risk: The high sugar and moisture content in the pulp causes natural fermentation to occur very rapidly and unpredictably. Without immediate processing, the beans can develop vinegar, alcohol, or rotten flavors – the primary reason Liberica was historically branded as “garbage coffee.”

To overcome these drawbacks, My Liberica invested in Malaysia’s first dedicated specialty coffee processing mill for Liberica in 2014. Innovations included:

• Anaerobic Fermentation (Method N26): In collaboration with Sasa Sestic (2015 World Barista Champion), My Liberica developed an anaerobic fermentation protocol. Ripe cherries are washed and sealed in tanks for 26 days (or varying durations like 20 days for the N20 lot). The oxygen-deprived environment forces yeasts to metabolize sugar via alternative pathways, producing fruity esters and inhibiting harmful molds. This process completely transformed Liberica’s flavor profile from “rotting wood” to vibrant notes of jackfruit, strawberry, and florals.

• Honey Process: By de-pulping but retaining the mucilage layer during drying, the producer enhances the sweetness and body of the bean. This method requires rigorous humidity control in greenhouses to prevent rot in Malaysia’s hot, humid tropical climate.

The Result: The combination of clay/peat terroir and modern processing creates an unprecedented flavor profile. Specialty Johor Liberica is characterized by often reminiscent of molasses or burnt caramel; prominent notes of Jackfruit (a signature varietal marker), dried mango, and tamarind; extremely thick, round, and viscous – a direct result of the low elevation and high mucilage density; long and nutty, eliminating the harsh bitterness often found in commercial Liberica.

While Johor is the fortress of Liberica, the state of Sabah on the island of Borneo offers a more diverse landscape, featuring high-quality Coffea Arabica in the mountains and a Robusta tradition in the valleys.

Ranau and Kundasang: Volcanic Soil and Temperate Climate

The districts of Ranau and Kundasang, nestled at the foot of Mount Kinabalu (Southeast Asia’s highest peak), provide the only agro-ecological zone in Malaysia suitable for specialty Arabica cultivation.

Farms here operate at altitudes between 1,200 and 1,500 masl. This elevation is vital for Arabica, as the cool temperatures (averaging 16°C–27°C) slow the ripening process, allowing the beans to accumulate complex sugars and acids, resulting in bright acidity and rich aromatics. Unlike Johor’s clay, the soil in Ranau is fertile, mineral-rich volcanic soil. Combined with cool air and year-round mist, this region creates a microclimate similar to renowned coffee regions in Central America or Sumatra.

Sabarica: The Cooperative Model and Specialty Arabica

Leading the Arabica revolution in Sabah is Sabarica, a producer founded by Jackz Lee, which operates on a cooperative model with smallholder farmers.

Unlike the centralized estate model in Johor, production in Sabah relies on collecting coffee from dozens of small farmers, mostly indigenous people living around the mountain’s base. Previously, due to a lack of knowledge, farmers often strip-picked (harvesting green and ripe cherries together) and dried them on the ground, leading to poor quality. Sabarica changed this by training farmers in selective picking (harvesting only deep red cherries) and building centralized collection and processing stations.

Key varieties include Catimor, Typica, and Bourbon. Catimor is favored for its resistance to leaf rust – crucial in humid tropics – while Typica and Bourbon contribute to superior cup quality.

Farms like Sabarica are about a 3-hour drive from Kota Kinabalu. The local residents of the Ranau area, belonging to the Dusun tribe, are known for their exceptional hospitality.

Sabarica employs Washed, Honey, and Anaerobic Natural processes. Their Washed lots stand out for cleanliness and nutty notes, while Anaerobic lots offer winey and complex tropical fruit flavors. Sabarica’s coffee consistently scores between 83 and 87 on the SCA scale, officially placing Malaysian Arabica on the world specialty coffee map.

Tenom – The Traditional Coffee Capital

South of Ranau lies the Tenom Valley, historically known as Sabah’s coffee capital. Tenom is associated with Robusta (Coffea canephora) and some Liberica, grown in lower, warmer lands.

The Tenom coffee scene is dominated by heritage brands like Yit Foh (est. 1960) and Fatt Choi (est. 1986). The tradition here involves roasting coffee with wood fire to create a smoky aroma, then processing it into “Kopi O” with margarine and sugar. While Yit Foh and Fatt Choi are cultural icons, they operate primarily in the commercial segment. However, the success of Sabarica nearby is beginning to exert pressure for innovation. Some small-scale Robusta and Liberica lots in Tenom are starting to focus on cleaner processing for the modern market, though this transition is slower than in Johor or Ranau.

Founded by Mr. Yong Loong Vun in 1960, Yit Foh is the oldest coffee roastery in Sabah. It offers guided tours of the roasting factory and overnight stays, blending tradition, aroma, and nature.

Sarawak, Malaysia’s largest state, represents the new “frontier” of coffee research. The Sarawak Liberica Refinement Project, led by Earthlings Coffee Workshop, is arguably the country’s most scientifically and socially profound coffee initiative.

Indigenous Stewardship and Forest Ecosystems

In Sarawak, coffee is not just a cash crop but part of the heritage of indigenous communities. The Orang Ulu, Bidayuh, and Kelabit peoples have grown coffee in their home gardens and swiddens for generations, often under the forest canopy.

• Long Banga: This remote village in the Marudi district has become the focal point of the refinement project. Located at approximately 500-550 masl, Long Banga cultivates Liberica in a semi-wild, agroforestry environment.
• Agro-ecological Approach: Farming here emphasizes nature. Coffee trees grow intercropped with fruit trees and rainforest vegetation, benefiting from natural shade and high biodiversity. This stands in contrast to large-scale monoculture plantations and aligns perfectly with modern sustainable consumption trends.

The “Excelsa” vs. “Liberica” Debate and Genetic Diversity

A crucial component of the Sarawak project is genetic identification and preservation. For years, there has been significant confusion between Coffea liberica and its variant, Coffea liberica var. Excelsa (commonly shortened to Excelsa).

Partnering with Dr. Aaron Davis from the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (UK), the project collected DNA samples from deep within Sarawak’s interior. Preliminary results suggest that Sarawak possesses incredible Liberica genetic diversity, with many variants likely endemic to Borneo. This diversity is key for breeding programs aimed at climate change resilience.

The project aims to differentiate Sarawak Liberica from West Malaysian (Johor) Liberica. While Johor Liberica is famous for its thick body and dark sugar sweetness, Sarawak Liberica – especially from highlands like Bario – exhibits more ethereal characteristics: floral, citrus, and tea-like notes, completely challenging the stereotype of the species as “coarse.”

Processing Experiments in the Rainforest

Earthlings Coffee Workshop has deployed processing experiments directly in these remote villages. They faced logistical nightmares, as Long Banga is extremely inaccessible, reachable mainly by small aircraft or logging roads. This isolation meant transporting fresh cherries out was impossible; processing had to happen on-site.

Micro-anaerobic fermentation was the chosen method introduced to smallholders. By fermenting cherries in sealed drums in the village before drying, they not only lock in flavor but also prevent spoilage caused by the high humidity of the rainforest during the prolonged drying phase.

The Sensory Result? Coffee from Long Banga processed this way has yielded unique notes of maple syrup, walnut, and rambutan, offering a gentler, more refined expression of Liberica.

In the north of Peninsular Malaysia, in the state of Kedah and specifically the Sik district, another coffee story is unfolding – one driven by multinational intervention and socio-economic development goals.

Nestlé’s “Grown Respectfully” Initiative

Nestlé, the world’s largest coffee buyer, chose Kedah to launch its Nescafé Grown Respectfully program. The primary aim is to revitalize the local coffee sector to supply raw material for “Nescafé Classic Kopi Kedah” – a localized instant coffee product. While this remains a commercial product, it plays a vital role in creating a foundational economic ecosystem for farmers.

Parallel to this is the emergence of independent farms like “Kopi Sik.” This farm cultivates both Liberica and Robusta on 12 acres. Notably, they claim to be the first Liberica farm grown at “high altitude” in the North (though 300 – 320 masl is still low by international Arabica standards, it is significant for the local topography). This demonstrates an effort to diversify species even in non-traditional regions.

Additionally, a unique feature of Kedah’s agricultural landscape is the blend of coffee and agrotourism at sites like Beris Lake Vineyard. Though famous for grapes, diversifying into coffee signals a “lifestyle agriculture” trend, where the visitor experience is as important as the produce itself.

Malaysian specialty coffee is defined by the economics of scarcity. Green beans from My Liberica or Sabarica often command prices significantly higher than commercial Arabica, and even exceed many imported specialty coffees.

As analyzed, the bean-to-cherry ratio of Liberica is under 10% (compared to ~20% for Arabica). This biological reality means Malaysian Liberica will always be a premium product because the production cost per kilogram of beans is immense.

Furthermore, Malaysia faces labor shortages and higher wages compared to Indonesia or Vietnam. This forces producers to target the high-value, high-margin specialty market as the only viable economic model.

However, the domestic market is maturing rapidly. The explosion of specialty coffee shops in Kuala Lumpur, Penang, and Johor Bahru is creating a ready market for homegrown coffee. There is a growing “support local” sentiment. Renowned cafes like 103 Coffee, VCR, or Ghostbird frequently showcase beans from Sabah and Johor alongside expensive Panamanian Geishas or Ethiopian Heirlooms.

Interestingly, specialty Liberica acts as a bridge for older generations used to traditional Kopi O. The familiar heavy body and sweetness of Liberica, even when light-roasted, offer a comfort that acidic Arabicas cannot provide.

Challenges remain. While Liberica is lauded as climate-resilient (drought-tolerant, rust-resistant), it is not invincible. Extreme weather patterns in Sarawak and Johor can still disrupt flowering and drying. Furthermore, coffee competes fiercely with oil palm and Durian (specifically the Musang King variety). Durian offers extremely high returns; for coffee to survive, it must prove its economic worth per hectare, reinforcing the need for high-priced specialty production.

Conclusion

Malaysia’s coffee landscape is a case study in resilience and reinvention. From the low-lying peatlands of Johor to the cloud forests of Mount Kinabalu, the nation is proving it is not merely a footnote in colonial coffee history, but a living laboratory for the industry’s future.

The distinction between the Johor Liberica model (estate-based, vertically integrated, high-tech processing) and the Sarawak model (community-based, genetic preservation, agroforestry) offers two distinct yet complementary paths for the survival of the species. Meanwhile, Sabah’s Arabica proves that with precise agronomy, even equatorial tropical nations can produce world-class highland beans.

For the global coffee industry, Malaysia offers a critical insight: Liberica is not an “inferior” species, but a “different” one, requiring its own agronomy, its own processing protocols, and its own sensory dictionary. As the world warms and Arabica supply chains become fragile, Malaysia’s experiment with Liberica – turning a “colonial remnant” into a “specialty gem” – may very well provide the blueprint for coffee sustainability in the 21st century.

Selected Citation Analysis and Photos from Espressocoffee Guide; MTPAK; 17 Gram Beans; MDPI; The Malaysian Insight; beanshipper; My Liberica; Yit Foh; Sabarica và nhiều nguồn khác.